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Hi, this looks like one of the first series of Black Panther, which started to be sold in 1997, and came directly from the Orion Custom Series. Then they decided to paint them in Black or choose a black finish (nowadays this is not longer that way) and called them Black Panther Snares.
This one has some customization on it. As Speed stated, the snare strainer was replaced (you can still found one that looks like the original on lower price MPX piccolo snares). And I'm almost sure that both, hoops and lugs, were recoated. Never seen one with this kind of coating, there were in chrome, in black chrome, black niquel and even Gold plated, but I've never seen one of these.
This is how looks the original strainer.
I bought mine, from the first series in 1997 and I paid 360€ for it. The ones in Birdseye Maple used to be 75-100€ more expensive. I wouldn't sell it for less than 200€.
And for the wood used there were Black panther in all materials, but the most used was Maple.
This is my first BP from 1997. You'll see the same kind of badges, but yours make reference to the external ply of wood, I'm pretty sure that the rest of the drum was originally the same thing.
Hello! Steel wool is awesome!!! Just kidding - of course to a point. 0000 wool is great to help blend in finishes. A scratch is removing something away so the game is to put it back or flatten out the surrounding areas to be the same height as the depth of the scratch. So polishing out scratches is a multi step process. I do a lot of wood and synthetic stock (for rifles) restoration and can share what I would do for that. This is all dependent on how deep the scratch is as well.
1. Remove scratch by sanding the scratch out. Gently. Start with a higher grit paper like a 400 or 600 wet/dry.
2. Even out the surface as best as you can so it doesn't look like you have a small crater where the scratch was.
3. Begin to remove scratches made by using progressively finer grit of sand paper. You should end up around with 3000 grit for a super fine polish. Usually you can find that at auto restoration parts store
4. Then I would use a super soft towel absolutely clean! And begin to buff out the area. Key is : soft, clean and white.
This will usually take care of scratches and dings very well and most of my customers would not know the scratch or dent was ever there!
Now the problem here is color lacquer finishes and removing of color when sanding. You might have guessed, this process ain't so great to revive color if you have a deep scratch and end up through the color.
So another thing to do is to use a clear epoxy filler. It's weird but this stuff works really amazingly well. http://www.caglue.com/Hot-Stuff-Original_c_15.html
I have been able to build up the scratch and restore the finish to a high luster using this stuff.
I admit this is all stuff that I was taught to do so isn't something that you may want to try out on your drums initially.
So where does that leave us?
you need this: http://www.tapastring.com/products.htm Guitar polish! This stuff works. The automotive stuff is fine for cars, not musical instruments.
The polish isn't fine enough so you end up just dulling and swirling the finish. And on top of that, you need an extremely soft and clean white towel for the job. A lot of people use shop rags and that's pretty much guaranteed to ruin your finish. Again, this is also a two step process! Don't cheat and try to do the job with one product. You need the 3 and 1 micron polish. Again please use the softest and cleanest WHITE towel you can find for final buffing.
There really isn't any other secret to it. If you want a quality refinish - you can't cheat with one type of polish and hope it will take out the scratch and give you a nice polish.