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DiehardDIYer

Official Member
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    849
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DiehardDIYer last won the day on September 19

DiehardDIYer had the most liked content!

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About DiehardDIYer

  • Rank
    Sr. Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Country
    United States
  • Location
    Texas

About this Drummer

  • Interests
    God, creation, gardening, home renovation
  • Bio
    Been playing off and on for 50 years. Started making my own drums in '91.
  • Current Band
    Miledge Muzic
  • Previous Bands
    Asaph 91-01, Legend - 1977-79 - Album: From the Fjords

Current kit Specs

  • Current Kit Specs
    I make my own drums. Currently using a 13 pc. set, 6" thru 24" all half toms and kicks. 13" Ironwood segmented shell snare. Cymbals, effects, gong - Paiste, Sabian, UFIP, Wuhan, Zildjian. Electronics - TrapKat, Roland, Alesis, Boss.

What I Like

  • Favorite Drum Brand
    Mine
  • Favorite Drum Sticks
    Ghost 5B
  • Favorite Drum Heads
    Attack
  • Favorite Snare
    6.5x13 Ironwood
  • Favorite BD Pedal
    Drumnetics
  • Single or Double bass
    Both
  • Traditional or Matched grip
    Matched

Recent Profile Visitors

2,145 profile views
  1. You lost me on your first school. What is that? I have big feet. My feet will hurt a lot if I sleep on my back and the sheets are tucked in. The stress on my feet, the sheets pulling them at my toes, seems little but, by the middle of the night I will wake up in pain. My wife doesn't bother tucking in the sheets. It's incredible the things that can bring pain to the body. The littlest things we hardly notice. A lot of stuff is diet related. I used to get bursitis in my shoulders. It hurt so much I could hardly pick up my mallet to strike my gong. The same person I mentioned before told me to try doing away with dairy. I didn't drink milk but, on cereal, and eating cheese, butter, yogurt, etc. I got rid of all of it. The bursitis went away, and never comes back unless I consume dairy products. Same with arthritis. I've been a vegetarian for almost 40 years so, animal meats, especially red meat, are not an issue. On the other hand, wheat, that's another story. Same person told me to get rid of the wheat. !!!! Seriously? Well, I did, and all the pains in my finger joints went away. Amazing. Red meat, white stuff like sugar, salt, rice, flour, etc, and the common wheat grown in our culture today account for all kinds of body aches and pains. Maybe something you are eating causes the inflammation. Did the nutritionist do any food testing on you?
  2. I don't know what advice to give about playing techniques but, seems to me a chiropractor or kinesiologist could release tensions and stress that bring about the condition. When my carpel tunnel acts up, there is a tendon behind/inside the elbow, that if pressed, though it hurts, instantly releases the tunnel from stress and strain so blood can flow. Someone that worked for a kinesiologist/naturopath told me that. Works every time. I believe there are points in your body that, if manipulated correctly, would relieve your pain. There's a reason why you have the inflammation. Find the source and address that and you should find relief.
  3. I agree on the fade. Should be at the reso side like the rest of the drums. That would drive me crazy. Nice kit, though.
  4. Glad to hear you made out ok, all things considered.
  5. I wonder where all these sound terms come from? Wet. What does that mean? Fat. Are opposites implied? Dry and Thin? Yet, if dble ply heads are Wet, single ply heads cannot be Dry. Single ply could be heard as Thin, I guess but, not Dry, unless you put rings on them or some other dampening material to take sustain away, which brings you back to dble ply heads. So, Wet and Dry are not opposites when speaking of drum sound. We don't speak of Wet cymbals but, do speak of Dry cymbals: meaning less sustain and spread. That is present with drum heads that mute sustain but, Wet is used to describe the sound. Odd.
  6. For some reason I thought you were in the panhandle. Man. No joke. The cymbals would ride out the storm if you keep them flat, in something. Heavy metal and all, though 185 mph could move them up the road or something if the worst happened. You won't lose them. But, that would be slim rewards. Are you right near the shoreline? God have mercy; to know it is coming for you must sink your gut to your feet. You and your property are in my prayers, Mike. Big time. Millions are praying this thing takes a sharp right. I know you'll be safe. I pray your house and property hold out, too. Hope and Courage.
  7. People know me - all things being equal, a drum is a drum. That said, acrylic is not wood, and you may have to search through various models of heads to get the tone you want, or as close to it as possible. My favorite heads are Attack. Been using them for many years. The price point is great, they sound and feel more lively than Remo but, that said, I am currently playing a set I made with 8,9,and 10" toms in front of me and while there is a difference between the sound of the batter heads, it was diminished when I changed out a Ambassador reso for a Diplomat. The 8 and 10 have Attack single ply for both batter and reso, something I have not done before but sounds great. When I play fills, no one could tell the difference. Mics wouldn't pic it up. The three drums sound pretty balanced. I still need to make an 11 and 17 and only Remo makes heads in those sizes so, I'll see what develops with the larger drums. The 9 sounded very muted with two Ambassadors. Changing to the Diplomat made a significant difference in its tone and especially volume. Attack claims their heads are louder and I can attest to that. Brighter might be the the thing that makes them seem louder. I just hear a little more crisp edge in their tone, which I like. If you want bounce on your snare, going with a center dot will not help that. I found that out right quick experimenting with some. That dot is for withstanding hard strikes, not response and what you need for articulate playing. A naked, single ply, coated head will always give you the best response for stroke patterns because the head is totally free to cooperate. Putting a dot in the center deadens the head enough to make playing rudiments a little less "effortlessly." You'll work a little more playing doubles, etc. I do not like them, even cranked up. Unless you are using really large sticks, which can provide more reaction, in which case you'll wear a single ply out more quickly, though, I would go with single ply heads on the snare. Depends on your style and the music too, which is why variations in snare batters came about. I have just found doubles, or any rudiments, easier to play on single ply heads all around. That includes the bass drum but, wide open kicks are not the general tone today, unless you're Keith Carlock. Sound waves have nothing to absorb into with acrylic drums. You may have more overtones than normally present with wood drums. Like Speedy said, take one tom, get an oil head, get a dble ply, get a couple single ply from Attack if you like, 10 mil for batter, 7 mil for reso, move things around and see what happens.
  8. Yep. Totally doable. I made a set of "octobans" out of concrete tubes back in the mid 90s. I just put veneer on the outside and lacquered the insides. No re-rings, though. This guy is a fantastic videographer, too.
  9. He sounds like Wally Cleaver. Or is it Ricky Nelson? One of those tv sons from back then.
  10. I never minded wing nuts, and I used to play out with a couple dozen cymbals, too. I DO mind the plastic gadgets almost all stands come with these days. They cut through after a short while, and cause cymbal buzz, especially when you do mallet rolls. Vinyl tubing, the same. Years ago I stopped using felt and plastic and began using rubber baseballs I slice up. I increased all my cymbal holes from 1/2" to 9/16" and use automotive hose or water supply line for sleeves. Virtually indestructible and they don't cause cymbal buzz. I can't tell exactly what these are made of but, it seems they would vibrate and you'd get cymbal buzz with them.
  11. I'm sorry for your accident. It's an inspiration to see players that keep forging ahead when they lose something like this. More power to you.
  12. What is the piece of hardware at each rack corner? Is that a Mapex dble/triple mount, or someone else?
  13. Indeed, the price is up there. On the other hand, I have been shocked by the price of rides lately, some being more expensive than this Giant Beat, and smaller in size, at that. Almost $600 for a Sabian 22 Artisan, or Meinl 22" Byzance models, Paiste 22" 602's, Signatures, and other models, it's crazy. Everybody has raised their prices all at once, it seems. In the past I generally get used rides if I'd like something else. I haven't seen any used 26" Giant Beats. I guess those who get them, keep them.
  14. Sweetwater has good bundles. Musicians Friend. Of course, Ebay. Shop around. As far as manufacturers, everybody has good features now, even on lower levels. For me generally comes down to a la carte and prices. Except for my teens, early 20s, when I had Ludwig, and even then I had scattered equipment from others, I have never owned hardware from just one company. I look for features/price, and go that way. Some want everything to match, which is fine, and I'd say, find bundles if you go that path. Used hardware is fine if you can make sure to get a refund if things are not what you expect. I don't generally get used hardware, unless it's vintage stuff. I expect things to be so-so and if I have to modify, that's okay. Otherwise, you never really know how tight people twist wing nuts and T bolts, etc., so, you never really know if something is about to strip out. I stick with new and get pieces that meet the need. That might be heavy duty or light duty, just depends. I recently got some Tama flush base cymbal stands and love them. Got a Gibraltar, too. Ludwig has them. DW, as well. Takes me back to my younger days before tripod stands. The Tama are cool because I can mount two cymbals on one stand, a la Ginger Baker, back in the day. The early stands had 3/8" solid upper rods which allowed it. Lots of fun. You just have to put something around the rod to protect it, and the cymbal. I'm a pretty big guy, play with enough force, and these stands go nowhere. I've been re-positioning the new 26" ride I got, and wondered how it would do on one of these stands and it did just fine. They don't go as high as tripods though. I always liked Pearl cymbal stands for features for the price. I don't know if Ludwig still makes telescopic boom stands but, I have had those for many years and they are great for the price. As far as h-h stands, I can use just about anything there. Some may be smoother than others but, they all work. Aside from my Drumnetics, I have a Mapex, sold a nice Yamaha I should have kept, have owned stands by Ludwig, Slingerland, Pearl, Tama, and others and they all worked fine. Snare stands, same thing, though features come into play for me there. I can live without universal tilt for cymbals, though I'd much rather have that but, snare stands, uni-tilt all the way. Toothed gears always seem to be an angle I don't like. Get something with universal tilt on that. That goes for your tom stand, as well. Unless you play with everything flat. Doesn't really matter then. Although, it is very possible to get a toothed gear tilt and their 'level' is not truly level. Just depends on how that gear assembly is manufactured and mounted on the tube. Go universal, if you can. Even secondary models have that now. It's pretty standard for everybody. Right now I have stands by DW, Gib, Tama, Yamaha, even some no-name, much less expensive snare stands off ebay that really surprised me for quality. So, yeah, man, enjoy the hardware hunt. The drums, too. Bill Cardwell is top notch. None better.