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SpeedNinja last won the day on July 10

SpeedNinja had the most liked content!

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About SpeedNinja

  • Rank
    Vintage Mapex Guru
  • Birthday 03/21/1984

Contact Methods

  • AIM

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Country
    United States
  • Location
    South Florida
  • Drums
  • Cymbals
  • Expert
    Mapex Vintage Expert
  • Sponsor
    Donated 2012
  • KOTM
    Kit of the Month - June 2009
  • 10000 Post Club

About this Drummer

  • Bio
    I've been playing the drum set since March of 1997. I got a vintage Premier drum set for my birthday and played it until I realized how rare it was. I got a Mapex Mars Pro 5 piece in late 1998 and played that until about 2001 when I went for a double bass Tama Rockstar kit. During that time I picked up a couple Black Panther snare drums. At school in NY I was stuck playing a travel Yamaha kit until they bought a Mapex Pro M set in 2004. When I came back home I started restoring the Premier set and I picked up a vintage Mapex set in 2005. Since then I've also picked up a third Black Panther and a Mars Pro snare to match my first Mapex kit. I've also sold my Rockstar and vintage Mars kits and picked up an 8 piece VX in black (with component toms left over).
    I played both concert and jazz band through middle and high school. I also played for a Christian group for my first 3 semesters of college.
    I've played in countless jam, rock, hardcore and metal bands through the years and now I'm just trying to find the time to look at my drums...
  • Previous Bands
    Life Without Shame, Dirt Floor Poor

Current kit Specs

  • Current Kit Specs
    Mapex 14x5.5" Aluminum Black Panther snare
    Mapex 14x6.5" Hammered Phosphor Bronze Black Panther snare
    Mapex 14x8" MPX Transparent Mighdnight Black Maple snare
    Gretsch 10x6" Prototype Steel snare
    Ludwig 14x5" Supraphonic 1967 Keystone badge snare
    Ludwig 14x5" Acrolite 1967 Keystone badge snare

    2009-13 Mapex Meridian maple 8x8, 10x8, 12x9, 13x10, 14x14, 16x16, 18x16, 22x18, 22x18, 14x5.5 in transparent black.

    Cymbal set 1: Zildjian K Custom Dark 15" crash, 17" crash, 14" hi-hats, 20" ride, A 8" splash, 10" splash, 12" splash

    Cymbal set 2: Zildjian A 14" New Beat hi-hats, 17" paper thin crash, 18" medium crash, 24" medium ride, 20" Ping ride, A Custom 12" splash, Sabian AA 16" medium thin crash

    Extras: 20" Paiste 2002 ride, 22" Paiste 3000 Reflector Power ride, 20" Sabian AA rock crash, 18" Sabian Metal-X china

What I Like

  • Favorite Drum Brand
  • Favorite Drum Sticks
  • Favorite Drum Heads
  • Favorite Bass drum heads
    clear PS3, ported stock front
  • Favorite Snare
    Mapex Black Panther 14x5.5" aluminum
  • Favorite Cymbals
  • Favorite Hardware
  • Favorite BD Pedal
    Ludwig Speed King
  • Single or Double bass
  • Traditional or Matched grip
  1. I'm not hating on you for following the music. I used to do it, and it's a legit way to play. I wouldn't say I've completely gone away from it, but I've added options to better fit some of the genres I end up playing. FWIW, I wouldn't say you are overplaying at all. I'd consider it to be fairly tame, but I know what you mean about getting those looks. It's part of why I got into different music after I started playing. I went from hearing, "Stop doing all that. Don't hit those things. You're playing too much." to hearing, "Add something here. Add some toms to what you're doing. Make this more complicated. Play this part faster. No, way faster than that." I was pushed to be better and be more creative instead of playing the same thing over and over for every song.
  2. Facebook tells me this video is popular. Usually I keep scrolling, but I had to watch this one. Figured I'd share it here for a good Friday laugh. Have a good weekend, everyone.
  3. It's fun hearing you play along to these, having not heard the originals, because you play along with the music a lot like I would have before I made a stylistic change. I'm referring more to the base beats and not the fills or transitions. I'm not saying I could play (or could have played) them as well as you, but the general style of bopping along with the bass/rhythm guitar is the same.
  4. That's huge man. I picked up a vintage 24" Zildjian a while back and it dwarfs everything. I can only imagine how imposing that beast is. Good to hear you're digging it after dropping all that cash.
  5. Some people theorize that using single ply heads, in combination with the proper resonant combination, allows a smaller tom to resonate longer and make it sound more like its larger companions. That being said, it's more to do with tuning (as mentioned) and batter/reso head relations. You can make thick 2 ply heads resonate forever, and choke out thinner single ply heads. A lot of the gospel I've heard uses fairly choked up toms to allow for the more articulate, faster playing to be heard clearly. (Same for a lot of metal drummers.) Obviously that's not everyone's taste in the genre(s), but it if suits your style of playing, then having less sustain might not be a bad thing. Typically I used the same heads across all my toms. I think it's more of an OCD visual thing for me. There's a thread here about using different combinations throughout your set. Maybe pop in there if you end up doing something different and let us know what you found. You have the advantage of questioning 8" head selection, because they're relatively cheap heads. Buy a few and try out several combinations. That's the best way to find the exact sound you're looking for, and you'll have a basis to make better guesses on larger drums if you want something different from them later on.
  6. There seems to be a wide range of "shine" for each description of high gloss, gloss, mirror, high gloss mirror or whatever description I can find, and some of it depends on the chemical composition of the finish being applied, apparently. To clarify (pun not intended) what I'm going for, I'll say I want to match the quality of the factory finish currently on the drums, just in a different color. Whatever you call it, whatever the technical name is, whatever random people on the internet call it, that's what I'm going for. I will probably end up using automotive grade products since I'll have to buy the compressor, guns and clear for other automotive related projects. (Or I'll take it to a body shop.) Most of the newer automotive paints and clear coats are water based. I might even do a ceramic coat after all that is done. I don't know if I'll gig this kit. Maybe I will, maybe I won't. Maybe I will until my other one is finished, or maybe I'll take it out on occasion. I'll have bags/cases and I'll be the only one touching them, so I'm not worried about it. The other kit I'm hoping to play out more will have a much harder surface, with an automotive clear over that. I have bought wrapped sets with damage like this, and have seen it happen to other people.
  7. I get what you mean there, but thanks for clarifying. By edges I meant the bearing edges. Which I guess would be the sides of a wrap/veneer rather than the ends. I'm really not seeing your apprehension to a high gloss finish, durability wise. I have it on my current drums, and I've had it on older drums. I've also had wraps. If you're careless, both scratch just as easy. If you pay attention to what you're doing, a gloss finish stays perfectly fine. Either way I always try to keep a wax on them, always transport them in bags/cases, and limit who else is allowed to touch them. Typically, my wrapped sets sustained more damage because I was less careful. Small scratches buff out on both, but it's easier on a lacquer finish. Big accidents like nicks and dropping things happen on both and aren't really fixable on either without some heavy amounts of work.
  8. I'm definitely going for a high gloss finish after the stain. Yes, that probably means going to an automotive shop if I haven't gotten enough tools/skills to do it myself. I don't like a textured wood grain finish on drums, and some other things. I think it looks half-assed and unfinished, on top of collecting a lot more dust in a lot less time. It depends on the object you're finishing. Sometimes a little grain looks neat. I've had several high gloss finished objects and it's always lasted. And forget dusting, micro-scratches start when you touch a highly polished finish, even metal. Having water in the room does help with dust, by not allowing ti to leave the floor. It also traps over spray. Everything that's still floating in the air can still get in your paint. The newer automotive paint booths have filtered water running below the floor, with fans to draw everything downward into the water. Dealing with contaminants is part of the painting process. It happens every time, no matter the set up. Yeah, getting the veneer on straight is going to be a pain with edges already cut. I've had that fun with wraps before too. I'll find a more patient helper for this project. Pearl. It's ugly as hell. My high school had a Ludwig kit with the "Jackson Pollock" interior finish.
  9. I see what you're saying about the additional issues with cutting diagonal, on top of getting it to line up. Straight cut sounds like the way to go. I'm still undecided on the interiors. I'll have to try it on one of the test drums first to see if I have the patience to do it properly. Any choice is going to be expensive. I'd rather go with the better finish. A wrap is a backup plan for me. Even then, I might just paint them a solid color I like before a wrap. I just picked up another cheap shell pack that I want to try another method/finish on. It will cost more than the finish wood veneer idea, and that's just for the raw finish material. If I can pull it off, it's going to look ridiculously good.
  10. Sometimes asking for help is the right thing to do. Drum looks good man.
  11. I know the veneer wouldn't add any strength. I was more curious if it's common to cut it at an angle to make it appear original to a modern shell, or not. Ultimately it doesn't really matter, but it might be a more stealthy modification with an angle. I have looked into the "stained wood" wraps before. It would look convincing but I would know it's fake, and I'd be spending a lot of money to not build any skills or learn anything. I'd say it's a viable backup plan in case I mangle the veneer installation. I have gotten that ringy or pingy sound you mentioned from probably too much tung oil on my old Rockstar kit. I tuned up a little and it went away. That didn't bother me since the final note was still lower than before doing the oil. It could have been due to the full length lugs resonating more as well. Yeah, Meridian Maple for all of them. The cat furniture is a mid-1980s Pearl Export tom with a stab wound, and I think a Sound Percussion 10-lug bass that was dropped on a lug, cracking the shell. The Pearl actually has that weird Jackson Pollock splatter paint "art" looking finish on the inside. I think they did that for humidity reasons The rest are all unfinished. I may try an interior veneer on that bass drum (cats like olive wood) first before I decide on the Meridians. I may just tung oil all 15 (kill me) of the Meridians like I've done my past few drum sets. As for the sunburst finish, I know it's cracked off under one of the lugs. I don't know which one, but the guy who cut it down for me said it happened and it was covered up. I didn't mind since I was experimenting with the sound and the finish didn't matter to me. I could spend some time to figure out how the finish was done, but it's pretty much a waste of time until I have to strip the drum. I'm looking to do a veneer anyway, so that really shouldn't matter. But I will remember to post what I find just so we all have a reference on how these particular drums are finished.
  12. It is a lot simpler for sure. I've driven over to my friend's house and recorded some basic tracks for him to sample in 10 minutes, including turning on the drum set and plugging it into the computer. Way faster than setting up mics and doing a sound check.
  13. Something like this Peavy set-up will probably be fine. My friend bought individual speakers that are a little smaller since he already had a small mixer. I was just playing along with the band through those and they worked fine.